Part number of replacement pots for M+?

OhulahanBass

My 5th pot is crazy jumpy making hard to pointless to use. I’m out of warrantee so I was going to try and replace it. Does anyone know the part number for the pot/encoder?

D-One

They changed the brand they previously use but the specs should be the same as for the MK3 and all previous devices, can't be 100% sure tho, you will need to try and find out for yourself. If you have a multimeter I guess you could at least probe and find out if it at least matches the 20k resistance of the previous knobs, that would be some extra confirmation before ordering.

I have done it before for an MK3, more info here: https://web.archive.org/web/20220830212208/https://www.native-instruments.com/forum/threads/knob-strength-on-hardware.349895/page-4

To summarize I used this pot: RV112FF-40B1-15F-0B20K-0068

The shaft is a bit shorter than the original but it works, to find the model with the same shaft size read the data sheet .pdf of the vendor, models with different properties should be there I think.

You will need a high-end soldering iron or flood the knob PCB with regular solder before you wick/suck it off as the one they use is lead-free and require very high temps.

The knob PCB looks like so:

Do note that a pot jittering around could just be electrical interference, try the M+ connected to other power outlets in your house and disconnect it from any other devices you might have plugged to it to be sure.

OhulahanBass

Really, I didn’t know the jitter can be caused by interference, I’ll try that.

I got a ton of high end solder gear, thank you for the part info, I hope it is the same for M+, I’m gonna order it tonight so I can get he job done all at once if the Ohms are the same.

Thanks D-One, you are king!

D-One

https://community.native-instruments.com/discussion/comment/72373#Comment_72373

No problem, let us know how it went. Yeah, really test everything you can think of as the chances of the pot being broken are very low IMO.

OhulahanBass

@D-One

So, I ordered the part you listed and replaced today and the knob is working perfect. I think for the first time in months my M+ hardware is operating perfectly. I wish I would have done this ages ago.

Thank you D-One!

PS. the Pb-less solder was a pain in the ******$ on one of the leads, it just did not want to vacate the hole even after I got the part off. I figured it out but a 10 min job turned into a 30min job so be careful and patient folks!