S88 MK2 power on/off hardware question

mikemurraymusic · 2022-03-06T00:30:40+00:00

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Thanks. Note: Read no further if 1) these answers are already in the user guide that frustrates you 2) this question should be in another part of the community - and that frustrates you... 3) questions in general - frustrate you...

As much as I love my S88, one thing I don't care for too much is the location of the power button (on the backplane). My keyboard slides out on a tray beneath a table. I'm sure there's logic behind the design decision but... My questions are these: 1) Are there any known guidelines regarding how long the S Series keyboards can be left powered on? 2) is there any known way to power on/down the keyboard while bypassing the power button safely (powered USB or something) and 3) Is there a lighting "dimmer" by any chance?

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JesterMgee

1) not really. As with anything7, the more you leave it powered on the more likely it will be that eventually something will fail. Likely that the screens may become dimmed or burnt in, the led's will start to either dim, become slightly inconsistent or eventually burn out. Could take a year, could take 10 years, could never happen. But if you power it off its less likely to happen prematurely

2) Not really. I have a power adapter connected to my keyboard which connects to a switch panel in my desk I use to switch off any part of my setup I do not want powered on (computer monitors, audio monitor speakers, audio interface, midi devices etc. I also have a "master off" switch that I switch off so I don't have to access the power switched of gear, as most gear the power switch is on the back. I then have my computer set to disable USB power when switched off because unlike almost every other USB device I have, NI hardware cannot switch itself off when no USB signal. I too also have a slideout draw for my keyboard but I find I can reach under it fine to switch it off.

3) nope, you would think there would be, or even the ability to switch it off but nope. If you just power from USB it dimms more than powered from power pack so that's all you can do.

Kubrak

1) I would add. Also switching on and off wears down the electronic gear. One has to find sort of compromise between minimasing on-time and minimasing power-on-off cycles.

2) I have it similarly like Jester. I also use remote controlled outlet, so that one does not have cables on the table or does not have to bend under the table.

https://www.powercubes.eu/en/product/powercube-extended-remote-set/

And also I have powered USB hub which has on off for every USB. So even if computer runs, I may have given gear powered off, if I wish.

Kubrak

Concerning the power switch. I do not think there is much, if any, difference between switch on appliance and central switch. I use that remote to switch on/off mains of my expensive audio monitors....

All comments

JesterMgee

3) nope, you would think there would be, or even the ability to switch it off but nope. If you just power from USB it dimms more than powered from power pack so that's all you can do.

mikemurraymusic

JesterMgee

Figured as much - thanks though… So on the electrical components and remote power switch question. Might a remote power switch like the one suggested by Kubrak (thanks again) potentially introduce more of a power on "jolt" to sensitive electronics compared to a given built-in power switch specifically designed and/or tuned for the task?

Kubrak

1) I would add. Also switching on and off wears down the electronic gear. One has to find sort of compromise between minimasing on-time and minimasing power-on-off cycles.

2) I have it similarly like Jester. I also use remote controlled outlet, so that one does not have cables on the table or does not have to bend under the table.

https://www.powercubes.eu/en/product/powercube-extended-remote-set/

And also I have powered USB hub which has on off for every USB. So even if computer runs, I may have given gear powered off, if I wish.

Kubrak

MartinK64

The location of the power button is quite unfortunate and could be awkward to reach if the keyboard is sitting against the wall or in a pull-out. I use a thin strip of plexiglass, about 2" wide which I bent with heat gun about 1" upward at the back and a bit downward in the front over the board my kk s88 mk2 sits on against the wall. It freely slides under the kk. I did put a thick self sticking small round pad on the button itself since it needs to be pushed a bit in beyond the flush of the back to be turned on/off. Now I just gently pull when turning kk on or off. It helps a lot, since I have a laptop stand basically covering kk's buttons and screens and top access to power button. I put sheet music on that stand, computer monitor is mounted above that, on the wall.

As you can probably see, I do not use most of the features of the kk, just the light guide when playing certain instrument vsts. Most of the time I stick to the piano and if the light guide bothers me, I call up an instance of a totally empty instrument on komplete kontrol software. Made with Kontakt. That shuts it up…lol…

Hope it helps :D

BIF

All of my synthesizer keyboards have their power switches on the backplane. All of my MIDI keyboards have their power switches on the backplane. My Maschine, Maschine Mikro, Maschine Studio, Push, legacy Korg Electribe, and other studio devices all have their power switches on the backplane.

The only things I have that have power switches on the front plane are my Focusrite and UAD rack-mounted interfaces, and my old Avid mixing devices. And my laptops. Oh, and my USB-C only Roli Seaboard 2. That has a rubber button facing upward and located on the lower left side of the keyboard. I like very much how well Roli designed this one.

The power switch is usually located on the power supply itself, and if internal, it's usually bolted to the backplane where it can't do much harm to the rest of the instrument. When the power supply is an outboard device (denoted by a "wall-wart" or an inline transformer in the power plug), then the on-device power switch could possibly be located someplace else...such as with my Seaboard and most laptops.

Most manufacturers just seem to stick with back-plane-mounted power switches. This is easier for them and not necessarily easier for the consumer. But the consumer will usually know where to reach for the on/off switch, right?

For USB powered devices, get a hub that has one switch for the whole hub or a switch for each USB connection.

For AC powered devices that have inconveniently-located power switches, then I'd recommend a remote power switch along the lines of what has been suggested above.

Ojustaboo

With my S88 mk3, it isn't so much that it's on the backplane, it's that

a) it's not near either edge

b) and it's on the bottom of the back plane, you can see from the attached pics how the top of the back sticks out, making accessing the switch on the bottom even harder.

BIF

We all have the same problem as you. I had to leave 1 inch of space between my MK3 and the shelf behind it, or I wouldn't be able to get my fingers in there.

Personally, I think the power button should be on the face of the unit, but not near any other buttons where you could accidentally press it and power yourself off during a performance or recording session.

But there's probably not going to be an opportunity to redesign the device anytime soon. So maybe find that remote switch for now, and look for a wishlist forum thread in about 3-5 years?

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